Cambodia
I'll start this entry how I started the others... at the airport, a beautiful
pagoda looking airport that was nice and tiny and blessedly hassle
free.
We
loved our hotel, the Golden Butterfly Villa. They greeted us with sweet iced tea in a cool silver
cup, and sweet sticky rice, and roasted bananas. This was the moment we had been waiting for, sticky rice!
Immediately setting out to try Khmer food, we were so pleased...it was DELICIOUS. Then we went to the
Cambodia circus, which is a training school for the kids there. It was so
funny and fun, and it is for a good cause. It was more story based, so
it wasn’t Cirque du Soleil or anything, it was just the happiness of
these teenagers seeping through that made it so amazing. Then we went to sleep to wake up early
for our tour to the archaeological parks.
First
we went to a temple called Bayon, it is known for the many faces of
Buddha/the King at the tops of the pillars. Man, it was so beautiful, and truly surreal!
Lots of cavernous areas, but also quite crowded. The carvings depicted a
lot of interesting scenes of war set against common life, even with
Acrobats and Elephants and such. We found out later that there was even a
scene of the Vietnamese army getting defeated and eaten by crocodiles
lololol but we didn’t see it. I called Vinh a "champa" for the rest of the trip.
We walked around the Angkor Thom complex, including a temple where
supposedly the King had to climb the steps to the top where he was
compelled to sleep with a snake woman every night, or so the story went
to early explorers. If she ever didn’t appear, it meant he was about to
die.
One site of interest was the terrace of the Elephants and the terrace of the Leper
Kings, where they think they might have cremated the royal family.
We went to have a nice lunch and after that, we went to Ta Prom, also
known as the Angelina Jolie/Tomb Raider temple. This was fun to wander around, the trees are literally growing into the
temple. When the temples were forgotten, the jungle just overtook the
area, and they decided to leave it that way.
Then
we went and got ice cream to cool off at the Blue Pumpkin. By the time we made it to "actual" Angkor Wat, we were really tired and hot, but it was very
beautiful, and we enjoyed looking at the carvings. My favorite was the
Churning of the Milk bas-relief. Its a long story, but the churning of
the waters basically created these angels, which is where the Cambodia
and even Thai female dancers you know of came from, you may know them as the dancers that do
the cool hand symbols movements. Turns out each of those hand symbols has a specific meaning.
Then
we watched a documentary om Angkor Wat while sipping Lotus Blossum tea and went and
got a massage.
The next day we took it easy. We slept in and had a nice pineapple pancake
breakfast. Then we went to get a water blessing by a monk at the Wat Po
temple. Basically it is a blessing where they throw water over you, and
speak about an incident in Cambodia history where the King threw water
over the different peoples and it was lucky. It is a standard part of a
wedding here, to do it just prior to the wedding. He talks about all of
your enemies will become friends, you will have a happy life, and to be
loving and tolerant to all — but he says this all in some ancient
Buddhist language so we didn’t understand a word of it. :)
Then
we went to this artisan crafts store where we learned about silk
making, etc. The kids are chosen by a charity — the leaders go to very
poor villages and set up coconuts and ask the kids to draw the coconuts,
and then the most talented ones are taken to the school where they
learn these different arts and the sale supports the school. That was
really interesting. I wish we could have bought more stuff there but
because it is all handmade, it was pricey!
That night we attended an Apsara dancing and dinner show (I mentioned
these angels above). I guess during the Killing Fields era, these
dancers were mostly killed because anything that made Pol Pot mad was
killed. So they are trying to recreate the dance culture from the rare
survivors and the carvings on the temples. It is really sad, almost
everyone we met here had tragedy in that era.
Kbal
Spean and Banteay Sprei were absolutely stunning, I especially liked
the waterfall/river even though it was a bit of a hike to get there, it
was all shaded and very peaceful. They carved these figures into the
stone during low water season, and they believed that by running over it
the water would be made sacred.
We
also went to the Landmine Museum and that was really sad. :( But I did
get a piece of jewelry made out of a dismantled landmine. They use the
money to help some orphans that live next to the museum. The story of
the man who started that place is so inspiring!!! He basically use to
arm land mines for the Khmer Rouge, now he battles against them and
works to disarm them.
We also took cooking class. We learned how to cook a traditional Cambodian curry dish
called Amok. So good! And we made a green mango salad and cane sugar
sweets to go with it. MMMMMMM.
After
that we went to a spa for a three hour rest, including a facial and a
body scrub with mango and honey. The massage was AMAZING. I felt like a
new person walking out of there.
The
next day we rode bikes around to some of the smaller less crowded
temples.Biking
back toward the hotel we finally stopped at the Killing Fields. They
literally have skulls in this monument for people to see. So sad, but
honestly, I don’t think the park did the tragedy justice. The plaques
and other explainer plaques were super run down. :(
Overall, I think Cambodia is definitely one of the most remarkable places I have been in the world, truly the people there are incredible. They have suffered genocide in recent history, and you can see the scars on the land and the people... but I feel they are like phoenixes rising from the ashes. And I can't wait to see what Cambodia does in the future.
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